My Chinese Elm Bonsai Tree

My Chinese Elm Bonsai Tree arrived yesterday evening. After taking the tree out of a box - it has been sealed in and traveled in for at least seven days from California to me in North Carolina - I took it to its new home at a window in our home - where I intend for the tree to lodge until the Spring - where I may move it to our Sunroom. [I have attached a series of images to support my share - for context].

1. Out of the box I placed in the window next where I am keeping my recovering Fukien Tea [another story I have told, will share update soon]. One nice thing is that the carrier apparently followed the shipping instruction asked as Fragile - and to keep upright only - Bravo!]

2. I did a - somewhat scientific - moisture content test for the Chinese Elm bonsai. Placed a thin wood skewer stick in the root ball for several minutes - appears not completely dry - so I lightly watered the pot [little over 2 oz. - which was drained out as seen this morning]. Also misted the leaves with water after being sealed in that dark box for at least seven days.

3. Put under a grow light last night [and tonight] for about 6 hours after being sealed in that creepy and unpleasant box for at least seven days.

4. There was some leaves that dropped in transit. However, less than I thought - at first glance what I thought were dying leaves were NEW GROWTH! Will keep the tree here in hopes of continued new growth. This tree will transition over to the sunroom year round after I babysit it for a while :cool:. Again, hoping the tree will like it here.

Some questions -

a. Seen conflicting suggestions on this. OK with a few hours direct sunlight, or suggest in shade for now?
b. 6 hours under grow lamp ok?
c. Watering suggestions from Chinese Elm owners with a tree this approx. size [about 15-inches from root top to apex], in similar sized pot [10-inch]?
d. Suggestions on when to prune and shape?
e. Suggestions on when to repot?
f. Any thoughts for a plan of action forward?

Thanks for any assistance!
Greg
Cary, NC

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your tree.

A: direct sun is not a problem. However it is important to gradually increase the dose.

B: We normally do not use grow lights in this hobby. But I cannot see why it should not be ok as long as it is not stronger than the sun and don't heat up the area too much.

C: when the surface looks dry, water with a fine strainer all over the surface until there are a constant flow out of the drainage holes.

maintenance pruning a few times per summer, cutting back to one or two pair of leafs. Big styling pruning in late winter to early spring when coming out of dormancy, but not first winter as you need to learn to grow the species healthy first.

E: In late winter or early spring when coming out of dormancy, but not first year and not at the same time as styling.

F: If frost has not yet arived in your area, bring it outdoors. Gradually let it adapt to full sun. If you get temperatures below 10 degrees, protect it in cold frame, greenhouse, shed or under snow.



Good luck with your new tree!

Greg,

The 10 degrees Tropfrog specifies us centigrade. In Cary that means 50F, and you are probably getting close.

BTW, "lightly watering" is the wrong technique. Pour it on wetting the entire pot until water pours out. You may have some issues watering indoors. Maybe put it in he kitchen sink.

Actually I ment minus 10c which would be 14f.

Tropfrog wrote:

Actually I ment minus 10c which would be 14f.

That's cold. When I lived near Cary it would get that cold in January or February.

Pretty much the same here. -10 at day time does not happen every year. If it happens it is usually in january or february. A few night at -10 happens every year. It is below -10 day and night for a few days in a row that can kill elms. When soil is frozen for a long time the tree cannot drink. But they are very hardy.