Dremel carving accessories

Clicio wrote: I've got for the Dremel (besides the small ones), "the Reaper."
Only 10.000rpm maximum and it will make dust out of your deadwood

That’s some serious power... I’m not ready for it, that’s for sure

Felidae wrote: That’s some serious power... I’m not ready for it, that’s for sure

Oh, yes, you are!
Firm hands, firm deadwood (don't let it roll), goggles, and keep your distance from the reaper.
A good eye for design you already have; we've all seen your hand made pots!

But....
Leatherback is right when he says the finishing should be done manually.
I use this set below for delicate work, such as the carving I did on that chopstick inserted at the graft point in my little elm for the contest.

Clicio wrote: Firm hands, firm deadwood (don't let it roll), goggles, and keep your distance from the reaper.
A good eye for design you already have; we've all seen your hand made pots!

All right.. Let’s try something similar I’m an outsider in the family, hence I have all my finger digits, but how I did work with big planing machines, that should be fine also.
Ah.. Pots... Maybe I can start to firing and glazing them at September.

Clicio wrote: But....
Leatherback is right when he says the finishing should be done manually.
I use this set below for delicate work, such as the carving I did on that chopstick inserted at the graft point in my little elm for the contest.

I’ll look up at my Dad’s workshop for nice hand carving tools when I’ll visit next time.
Meanwhile, I’ve found some small carbide and diamond bits on the drawer for the Flex shaft. I’ll take a shot to test them on different woods for finer work.



I started to sorting the accessories what I think I can use for Bonsai. I’ll take a photo tomorrow (or after).

Those I picked out, thinking they could be good for carving work.

Small diamonds and carbides for the flex shaft. I’d like to use those more for fine detailing.



Carbides for detailing, grooves, veins.


Skive, burnish.


I saw those work on grains in some vids. I think I’ll use more the stainless one.


Yeah.. Could be useful.. But I’ll buy one (2,3...) good nibbler on the next month...

They all look useful!
but...
You will have to find A LOT of deadwood to train with those guys!

Keep in mind that the fine ones fill up with muck very fast. If you are working on fresh wood, opt for thee coarser burrs.

The brushes tend to let go of the hairs, flying everywhere. Put on a thick hose and long sleaves. I have pulled a steel wire out of my foot.

Clicio wrote: They all look useful!
but...
You will have to find A LOT of deadwood to train with those guys!

I collected dead branches on the forest, and bagged some dead trees to excercise. I think it’ll be a fun training before the real ones..

leatherback wrote: Keep in mind that the fine ones fill up with muck very fast. If you are working on fresh wood, opt for thee coarser burrs.

Thanks, LB! Helped to remember what my father thought me about woodwork.. ^^

The brushes tend to let go of the hairs, flying everywhere. Put on a thick hose and long sleaves. I have pulled a steel wire out of my foot.

Oki! I’ll wear long. And googles also. (Me I’ve had a drill bit on my forearm once.. It wasn’t fun..)

Felidae wrote:

Clicio wrote: Oki! I’ll wear long. And googles also. (Me I’ve had a drill bit on my forearm once.. It wasn’t fun..)

Aoch.
I know the idea.. I once had a nibbler on my finger. Thing nearly took it off. I toughts I could hold the tree stable with one hand, and guide the tool with the other. I clearly could not. So yeah, just be carefull. These toys are no toys for messing around with.

Yes, most of the small ones like those below will clog in no time.
But I'm using them to make the finishing details and on small trees.